To my right the steep crumbling cliffs of the Na Pali Coast plunge 3,000 feet into a blue sea. To my left a ravine of ohia trees is vibrant with vermilion blossoms. I am standing on the serpentine Awaawapuhi Trail in Kauai's upland Kokee State Park, dodging clouds and catching ocean views. A vast 4,345-acre tract on the northwestern corner of Kauai, Kokee (ko-kay-ay) sits just below the cloud line, between 3,000 and 4,000 feet. As a result, cool temperatures prevail on the park's extensive network of trails, which range from easy to difficult. I choose the moderately difficult Awaawapuhi, Nualolo Cliff, and Nualolo trails to get the view and some quiet along a 9-mile loop that dips 1,500 feet toward the Na Pali Coast. (Here is a link to a trails brochure for the park). On this day, I saw two other hiking parties. I imagine that on busy days you might see five. *It's never really crowded*.

The views are stellar, as you can see. (I didn't catch a rainbow like the one in the pic but these "hanging" valleys are unreal to see). This loop is not a family hike. Technically, the hike is not hard. But the return trip back up to the trailhead goes steadily uphill and makes for a grueling slog, particularly on wet days. For less huffing, the 1/4-mile nature trail loop behind the Kokee Natural History Museum covers Hawaiian plants and their traditional uses. The museum itself is a repository of geologic, geographic, and biologic detail on the park. From June through September, there are naturalist-guided hikes on short trail loops near the museum. The park is a Mecca for birding, as rare species of Hawaiian birds are more numerous in Kokee(the link is to a site that has samples of bird calls from Hawaiian birds of Kauai). The quick-and lazy-way to visit Kokee is simply to drive to the Kalalau Lookout Point a few miles past the museum. From Waimea, it's 16 narrow, winding miles up State 550 to the park. On the way up, stop at Waimea Canyon Lookout for a view of the massive rust-red rift called "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific."

Details: Be prepared for cool rain. Long pants and rain gear are a must. The Kokee Natural History Museum (808-335-9975) has hiking maps and is open 10-4 daily. You can also hire guides through the museum for hikes in the Kokee area. Directions are here.

Eating: The Portuguese bean soup at the lodge's cafe and gift shop (9-3:30 daily) is a godsend on a chilly afternoon.

—Alex, 07/29/06