For good reason, my friend Dave Choo has earned a loyal following among local readers for his Hawaii Business Magazine food reviews. Unlike lots of food writers who love the sound of their own words, Choo doesn't bloviate in his "Dining with Dave" nor is he self-consciously erudite. He calls it likes he sees it in simple terms and his reviews perfectly capture the spirit of the place, be it a humble plate lunch place or a AAA multi-diamond restaurant where tabs run into the mid-six figures. In his latest installment, Choo reviews the 9-course tasting menu at La Mer, the signature restaurant at the Halekulani. I'm both jealous and sympathetic. La Mer is one of my favorite restaurants in Hawaii. Chef Yves Garnier consistently prepares elegant classical French cuisine with Provencal sensibilities. The setting is also un matched, overlooking the waves of Waikiki with music wafting in from the three-piece hapa-haole band playing on the hotels patio-bar "House without a Key" right next door. But nine courses at La Mer is almost too much indulgence for any mere mortal to bear. Well, O.K. If you twisted my arm, I'd probably do it. Map/Reviews.

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—Alex, 08/22/06