I often read the Chowhound bulletin boards to learn what people are saying about eating in Hawaii and what they are asking about the state's food scene. Every now and then I'll crib one of these queries and answer it online -- it's an easy way to assign myself an idea. Every now and then, we get a hankering for a really good steak. Unlike New York, Chicago or Los Angeles, there are no classic steakhouses. There aren't even any really high-end chains; Ruth's Chris is about the highest (and I'm kinda lukewarm on them). There is no Smith & Wollensky's or anything of that caliber on Oahu. However, great steaks can be had in Honolulu. You just really have to know where to look. There are a couple of places I would highly reccomend. First, DK Steak House in Waikiki is a serious steakhouse run by D.K. Kodama, the chef behind the popular

Hawaii sushi chain Sansei. It's the only facility with a dry aging locker in the islands. I've eaten there before and it was as good as most top-quality chains on the mainland. The deserts were not super strong and portions were massive. The ambience was nice and subdued, as it should be in a steakhouse. The crowd looked more local than tourist to me.

Another long-time favorite is 3660 on the Rise. This is not a true steakhouse. It's a Hawaii Regional Cuisine spot and chef Russel Siu has long since earned his chops in that arena. His ahi katsu (ahi crusted with bread or panko and deep-fried leaving fish raw but outside crispy) is considered one of the best in the state. And his pepper crusted New York steak is da bomb (has been for years). The only downside to this restaurant is the decor -- beyond tired at this point.

My one beef (pun intended) with these two restaurants is that they do not serve locally-raised beef. Hawaii has a handful of ranches raising grass-fed and high-grade cattle and you can find it at a number of upscale restaurants. A lot of these places struggle to cook the grass-fed stuff the right way. You gotta cook it fast or else it turns to leather. Alan Wong serves grass-fed, free-range beef from North Shore Cattle Company on Oahu or Maui Cattle Company on Maui. At his Pineapple Room restaurant located in the Ala Moana Shopping Center, he lets you pick your cut (tenderloin, New York, rib-eye), pick your sauce (bernaise, mustard peppercorn, garlic butter) and let it rip.

Alan Wong's Pineapple Room (Map/Reviews), DK Steakhouse (Map/Reviews), 3660 On the Rise (Map/Reviews)

—Alex, 09/04/06