Note: Sorry for busted links in the image and the text yesterday. Fixed.

This is part of a series of five excerpts from a book by Jessica Ferracane, "50 Thrifty Big Island Restaurants". Foodies trolling for blue collar grubs should dig in. And a hat tip to the folks at Watermark Publishing who agreed to the excerpts. If you buy the book through these links, I will get a small cut so help me help them help you ;).

Ken’s House of Pancakes

Ken’s House of Pancakes is the best restaurant in Hilo, according to veteran waitress Irene, a bundle of beautiful energy who has worked there for 30 years and who twice has been voted “Best Waitress” in East Hawai‘i by readers of the Hawaii Tribune-Herald. Irene knows a thing or two. Like what to order. Like any self-respecting local girl, I like to eat saimin for breakfast occasionally. At Ken’s, the saimin is made with fresh Hilo-made Maebo Noodles and an imported shrimp broth that separates this saimin from the rest of the pack. Irene steered me toward the Keiki Min, a “small” portion for $3.75. Floating on the surface of the broth, above a submerged bed of dense noodles, are scrambled egg, a few slices of char siu pork and a pink-and-white slice of fish cake. I slurp mine down with a dollop of the sinus-clearing Chinese hot mustard served on the side. Whoa, baby! The Keiki Min leaves enough room to try one single namesake pancake ($1.75 a la carte). This is pancake perfection, with a thin, crispy edge and plenty of butter and syrup, including maple and coconut. Breakfast of champions! Ken’s is open 24 hours a day and is a welcome stop for everyone, from cops to late-night party animals to volcano observers headed back home or back to their hotels.

LOCATION Ken’s is a landmark, at the corner of Kamehameha and Kanoelehua avenues (the junction of State Highways 19 and 11, respectively) (Map / Reviews)
HOURS Daily, 24 hours
ALCOHOL No
PLASTIC A, DC, D, MC, V

—Alex, 10/16/06