Truth be told, we got to this big foodie event on the Big Island a full hour late. A strange confluence (conflagration?) of events transpired to contribute to our tardy arrival, from a late depature from Honolulu due to a lightning strike near the Hilo Airport (don't ask) to defective car seats from Alamo in Kailua-Kona, to a massive traffic jam at the entry drive to the Hilton Waikoloa Village where we waited 30 minutes in bumper-to-bumper traffic to get to the resort. I was also a little annoyed to arrive and realize I would have to pay for booze. No matter. The food was great. And I didn't even get to taste the offerings from the marquee names, Chef Mavro and Alan Wong. No, the massive crowd had mobbed those booths and they had long since run out of grub by the time I got there. Instead, what I did get to do was cruise around sample the lesser names and I found some outstanding eating. I'm going to take a few days to run through this list, as all of them are open to the public in some form or another so, ideally, Hawaiirama readers can create their own Taste of the Range at their own pace (truly, sampling small plates from 20 restaurants in the span of 45 minutes was, shall we say, difficult). Tante's claims the slogan "Where locals eat."

I can't verify this assertion. However, I can tell you the cooks at Tantes, which is in Waimea and took over the space from the old Parker Ranch Broiler, makes some of the best beef tongue chili I've ever had. The tongue was so succulent and tender I could have cut it with a piece of string. The chili was zippy but not out of sight. The sauce clung to my palate just enough. Alas, this dish isn't on the regular menu at Tante's. But based on this showing I'd definitely give them a try. I would, however, stick to the more basic preparations as this does seem to be their strong suite -- things like their short ribs, ahi poke, and guisantes. The restaurant is the latest offering from Tante Urban, who also runs the food concession at the bowling alley in Kailua-Kona and a large employee cafeteria at a major hotel. So you know this dude's got serious down-home cooking down pat.

Tante's Bar and Grill
67-1185 Mamalahoa Highway G-138, Kamuela, HI 96743 / Tel: 808-885-8942 (Map)

—Alex, 10/08/06