That hasn't stopped a hardy handful from making a go. Chef Ed Kenney picked his way through several restaurant failures before landing a winner with Town, a much-acclaimed Honolulu bistro that emphasizes local produce and works directly through farmers. It's motto? "Local first, organic when possible," a refrain no in vogue thanks to the Michael Pollen's local food crusade. Blue Water Grill and !2th Avenue Grill, both in East Oahu, have won loyal local followings as neighborhoods joints with entrees in the $20 range. (Tourists are welcome, too, of course) On Maui, Mark Ellman's Mala, a more noveau American flavored waterfront casual eatery, is picking up steam. Yet despite these notable successes, the most anticipated restaurants opening of the year in Hawaii is...a branch of Nobu in Waikiki. Doh!

—Alex, 10/25/06