Caveat reader. What you are about to read was the result of a comped dinner experience, Translation? I couldn't afford it but when the Halekulani offered to feed me its " Louis XIII de Remy Martin Ultimate Dinner," I simply could not resist. Truth be told, sLa Mer is like a grand dame that keeps wearing clothes from several fashion seasons ago. The style is so subtle, so reserved that it feels more like a throwback 1980s Continental cuisine restaurant, but a really, really good one. I love it. Other people, who are just plain clueless, don't seem to get the food -- which is ironic considering they run a Website (Hawaiidiner.com) that purports to provide expertise on Hawaii food! (Ed. Note: this same food expert took several tries to understand why Alan Wong’s has great food – nuff said).At any rate, the hotel runs this dinner event in conjunction with distributor Southern Wine & Spirits each year for two months in November and December. A portion of the proceeds goes to a worthy cause, in this case, the American Red Cross, Hawaii Chapter. The meal is a nine-course tasting monster (more like 11 when you count the amuse bouche and the extra dessert treats). It is exceedingly decadent. A few of the highlights after the jump.

Lobster aspic and poached quail egg with caviar was the perfect balance of creamy rich and briny tangy, with the bite-and-squish texture of the caviar offsetting perfectly the lush gel of the aspic. The onaga strudel was like no other strudel I’ve ever had, smokey, tender and wrapped in a still crisp filo pastry (how Chef Yves Garnier keeps it crisp I have no idea). The sorbet of Remy Martin cognac was other worldly, the rich caramel flavors of the cognac bring so much power to the light frozen palate cleanser that I felt like I was eating ice cream. Then, of course, there is the Remy Martin Louis XIII, a blend of cognacs averaging 50 years of age with some components eclipsing the century mark. You basically put your nose in the glass, breath deeply and smile. Keep in mind, this is French food with a capital F. It’s very old-school. Anyone used to big, bold unsubtle flavors that are more in vogue right now could be disappointed. On the other hand, as part of the dinner you get a 1.5 ounce pour of the Remy Martin Louis XIII – rack price at La Mer runs $150, so you essentially recoup the $155 dinner cost (without wine pairings) by showing up and eating dessert. At any rate, you have another month to partake. I highly recommend it.

Ultimate Dinner at La Mer
$155, two person minimum
Reservations: 808-923-2311

—Alex, 11/29/06