Hiroshi Fukui started out washing dishes in a Japanese restaurant in Waikiki. His only formal training was on the job as he climbed the ranks from line to sous to the guy running the kitchen. Fukui spread his wings at L’Uraku, a quirky Japanofrench bistro in an unremarkable skyscraper in central Honolulu. Hiroshi picks up where he left off with Hiroshi’s, a Japanofrench tapas restaurant in an even more unremarkable restaurant ghetto development called Restaurant Row. Don’t let the lack of ambiance and bad juju of this revolving restaurant death zone fool you. Hiroshi makes truly fine grinds. If you have eaten through his career, you can easily see his progression from winsome but at times clumsy fusion at L’Uraku to more finely wrought, subtle concoctions at his eponymous spot. I loved his seared scallops, bacon takana ragout, tobiko & kabayaki butter sauce and the flash fried Kona Kampachi Carpaccio witth ginger, Hauula tomato, tofu & ponzu vinaigrette. Lots of people seem to like his Asian takes on foie gras, but I thought some of his other dishes were better. The drink menu here is also really cool, with a shiftin array of mixed drinks made in very cool styles. Chuck Furuya, the master sommerlier, overseas wines so pairings are usually very good -- although heavy on the riesling side, as is common wtih Hawaii fusion cooking. Be prepared for a bit of sticker shock as small plates does not mean cheap plates -- easily $140 for a dinner for two with minimal booze.
Hiroshi Eurasain Tapas
500 Ala Moana Blvd in Restaurant Row (Map) / 808.533.4476
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