We were over at the beach in Kailua yesterday and it had been over a year since we had last eaten at Lucy's Bar and Grill. That's about a year too long. Now, I would never say Lucy's has the best food in Hawaii or even in Oahu. But it's a rarity in the islands -- a casual, neighborhood restaurant with upscale culinary aspirations, downscale prices, and the panache to pull it all together. The food there is never perfect or even stunning but I find it to be extremely tasty yet sophisticated enough to be interesting. (Note -- this is another one that is so stealth I couldn't find a pic. We forgot to bring the camera yesterday -- argh).

he ahi tower is the top app -- its a tower of spiced ahi, avocado, pickled ginger, tobiko and other goodies perched atop a round bed of rice. It's basically a self-service sushi thingy, as you take the dried nori wrappers that come with the dish and roll your own. The ahi quality is high and this is fun and filling. They overdo the mayo a bit but you can avoid that by brushing it off to the side of the plate. It's not mixed in. Anything cooked with the kiawe grill tastes wonderful and you can see the glowing chunks of kiawe in the kitchen. They have an open kitchen so there are no surprises, here. I also love the grilled ceasar salad which is basically a very large chunk of romaine lettuce literally grilled over open flames and toped with a rich dressing and cheese. It's a total yum. Some of the entrees can be hit or miss, with flavors not living up to promise. I found the lamb chops cooked Indonesian style to be undistinguished. The kalua pork spring rolls were a little heavy and greasy. But most of the fresh cooked fish is right on target. Our grilled ahi came perfectly seared and sauced moderately so as not to mask the luscious flavor of this Hawaii delicacy. Deserts are good but not great. All told, don't expect five star cuisine. But for a family or a simple night out, this place rocks. You can tell because it packs out and the crowd ranges from windsurfing Europeans in their 20s to older folks. Families love this place due to the outdoor patio seating, casual feel (no blinks at screaming babies) and big tables. A dinner for four with a drink apiece should run well under $200 and the appetizers are so massive that entrees really are unnecessary. Even better, it's only gotten a few reviews in TripAdvisor so it remains somewhat off the radar. Enjoy!

Lucy's Bar and Grill
33 Aulike St, Kailua / (808) 230-8188 / Map

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—Stuart Y., 01/16/07