I'd been hearing rumors about a great new place to eat in Hanalei for six months now. Something about tapas, which seemed incongruous as Hanalei is the ultimate country town. Not to say unsophisticated but, rather, the peeps sack out early 'cause the surf's always up. It turns out that Bar Acuda is the product of a surfing chef. Jim Moffat is a San Francisco refugee who ran respected eateries in the City by the Bay like the Slow Club and 42 Degrees (where he earned accolades as one of Food & Wine Magazines Top 10 New Chefs in 1996). At Bar Acuda, Moffat puts together a barrage of tasty small plates, as well as some entrees, with prices that even a middle class surfer could stomach (all apps run less than $12, a very good deal). The cuisine is Medihawaiian with hints of the Continent but local ingredients.

For sure, Moffat, who surfs every morning words has it, has got the local ingredients gospel and cooks up delish Kauai veggies and fruits as well as fresh caught fish, whenever possible. He is one of the few, however, who doesn't try to relabel himself as a practitioner of Hawaii Regional Cuisine and slap a ponzu beurre blanc sauce on every plate emerging from the kitchen. No, Moffat is more likely to produce Spanish tortilla with potato, peppers and chorizo or roasted Hawaiian spearfish with candied tomatoes, leeks, and hearty romesco sauce. The decor is woody and airy with lots of soft-shades of polished timber, Brazilian 'ipe wood, and an open kitchen. Call it a place for hippies who grew up and made it, but hey, its a great place to be a castaway.

Bar Acuda
Bar @ 5:00 Dinner @ 6:00 Closed Mondays
Reservations 808-826-7081 / tapas@restaurantbaracuda.com
5-5161 Kuhio Hwy, Hanalei (Map)

—Alex, 03/06/07