Day 2: You’re in Hawaii so get wet and take it all in. Score a kayak cruise in Kealakekua Bay, a marine preserve at the base of the green hills of Kona's coffee country, where pods of spinner dolphins are frequent visitors. Kona Boys has been doing it for over a decade and has a decent local rep. (Be advised -- at present it is still illegal to kayak into the bay without a permit, so its better to go with the permitted tour companies for now). You can also sail into the bay, if you want a mellower ride, on the Fair Wind IIcatamaran. No pain, no pain. Even better snorkel spots, where you'll see yellow and black angelfish, neon green parrot fish, and a host of other tropicals, are in the protected northern half of the bay a mile north of the kayak-launch spot. (Make sure to get a map for either the trail or the kayak launch spot. Captain Cook's monument, where he perished, is at the base of the rugged trail.

You can get to the by kayak or by making the one-hour hike down a jeep trail.For lunch, double back to Kainaliu, 15 minutes north of Kealakekua, for localesque grinds (curry, fish tacos, Hawaiian-beef burgers with fresh papaya smoothies) at the Aloha Angel Café (. Then resume your southward course to Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (808-328-2288), an ancient archeological site with recently spruced up exhibits. Park staffers give hands-on demonstrations of carving a traditional koa-wood outrigger canoe and weaving lauhala-leaf mats. There is also stellar snorkeling just north of the park off the boat ramp but bring your aqua socks and don't tramp on the coral, please!

Image via Fair Winds

—Alex, 05/24/07