For most of the past two decades, the historic and lovely Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel may have been the most underwhelming hotel in Hawaii. A lovely wooden, turn-of-the-century Victorian structure in virginal white, the Moana is one of two remaining vintage hotels in architecturally challenged Waikiki, home to some of the world's ugliest resort architecture. The image of the Moana has long been a breath of fresh air, with its long, rocking-chair lined lanai (balcony), open sight lines, wooden shutters, and banyan tree shaded courtyard. The image was great. Staying at the property kinda sucked. Service was lackluster, at best, Food was pretty bad. The music played too load. Rooms were not bad, due to a 1998 remodeling, and somewhat modern but in the historic banyan wing they were not terribly comfortable. In a fit of money-grubbing pique, the owners had slapped a butt-ugly addition onto the western end that was more in keeping with Waikiki's cement ghetto meme (it's still there and not going away) The property has been reflagged as a more upsacle Westin brand hotel as of June 1. Starwood is touting extensive renovations on the interior and public areas (I'm unclear on the extent of the in room renovations beyond flat-screens and new beds). The renovations are welcome. Whether the Westin can ramp up the service with the old staff in place remains to be seen.

I personally experienced (on a press junket, no less) one of the most horrifying dinners in memory. The food was tasteless, the service non-existent, and midway through the meal two busboys started breaking down a table across from us and slamming chairs so loudly that several tables of Japanese tourists fled with fear in their eyes. When we got our drinks poolside they came in really cheap plastic cups. The courtyard played witness to a comical scene of a preacher belting out a sermon of a recommittment ceremeony for guests with the volume on his amp turned up so loud that even screaming at the top of our lungs my partner and I could not hear each other clearly. We swore not to come back until something changed, even though the hotel itself is one o the most lovely in the islands. Now I have a reason to go back and am eager to sample the new mood and new management. Make me proud, folks. Can't wait to get down there and check it ou because I really love the bones on this place.

Image via Royal Hawaii

—Alex, 05/29/07