In 1901, after numerous pleas from his wife, Mary, Big Island rancher W. H. "Willie" Shipman purchased this graceful, secluded Victorian high above Hilo Bay for the grand sum of $13,000. Hospitality has ruled ever since. During a 1907 tour of the South Pacific, writer Jack London and his wife spent five weeks there. (Hilo had no hotels at the time.) Queen Liliuokalani, Hawaii's last monarch, enjoyed playing the parlor's 1912 Steinway. When they turned the house into a five-room inn, Shipman's great-granddaughter Barbara Ann Andersen and her husband, Gary, kept up the tradition and built on the rich history of this Victorian gem.

Koa-wood cabinets, mantels, and bookshelves date to the original construction in 1899. Most of the furniture was bought by Mary Shipman. Vintage family photos mix with contemporary works by Hawaiian artists such as John Kelly and Dietrich Varez. Coffee and pineapples and other tropical fruits, all grown on the five-acre estate, dominate the breakfast table. For a view of the bay, request Auntie Clara's Shell Room. Its comfy rocking chair is perfect for a late-afternoon wave-watching session. I loved staying at this place, particularly sitting on the big porch sipping lemonade and looking out over Hilo Bay. The hotel is an easy walk to downtown Hilo, which has some really cool shops like Sig Zane and Dragon Mama Futon and the best farmers market in the state, where Saturdays bring out an eye-popping assortment of exotic fruits and veggies. Don't expect sunshine, as Hilo is often cloud and rainy. It's a sleep, lovel town that is the ultimate anti-resort city in Hawaii.

Shipman House Bed & Breakfast
800/627-8447 or 808/934-8002
131 Kaiulani St., Hilo / Map

Image via Incredible Journey Travel

—Alex, 05/21/07