In my first year living in Hawaii, I was working as a staff writer for Hawaii Business Magazine (making something like $20,000 per year) in 1994. Part of that gig was trips to the Neighbor Islands to cover business out there. We got a piddly per diem for food. I drew Kauai and headed over to Lihue. Everyone I spoke to there raved about the food at this place called A Pacific Cafe. I saved up my entire per diem for the next day and took myself out to dinner. It was one of my most memorable experiences with Hawaii Regional Cuisine (perhaps because it was my first, but no matter). The wok-charred mahimahi with sesame crust and a light lime ginger beurre blanc (pictured here) was a total tummygasm and it told me that I had done the right thing moving to Hawaii. The chef was a man named Jean Marie Josselin and he did fusion extremely well, better than just about anyone save Alan Wong and easily on par with Roy Yamaguchi.

After a series of business setbacks, Josselin bailed on Hawaii and set up shop in Vegas, where he won some nice reviews. I missed his restaurants -- a lot. They turned out some fine chow. So I was extremely cheered to read that Josselin is returning to Hawaii and will be opening a restaurant in my own neck of the woods -- Kapahulu! His new style will be more rustic French a la Chef Mavro and less bold fusion but no matter. The man can cook and I'll wait for the goodies coming off his piano anytime. This is the latest promising resto development, with a number of really promising eateries opening in the past year (Stage, Casis, Restaurant Epic, Downtown, Du Vin). More to come as the story develops.

—Alex, 10/16/07