One day when I was snorkeling 1/4 mile off Wailea on Maui, I saw a fluttering black ghost traversing the depths. I paused, looked down, and saw the undulating wings of a giant manta ray, a rare site off the Valley Isle and rare still in the daylight hours. These gentle giants with 20-foot wing spans love Hawaii and why not? Warm waters. Lots of good food. Hands down…